I Love My Mutt Dogs

John Williams Dog Training asked:


Leash training or lead training is the discussion of many dog trainers in this modern age and discussions of how to train your dog in the nicest possible way are aplenty. These discussions are brought about by people and dog trainers believing that pulling on the leash to correct a dog’s behavior is causing injury to the dog.

I’m not here to discus this also, but I certainly don’t believe there is anything wrong with leash training if it is done in the correct way and care is taken not to hurt the dog or give any sudden forceful pulls on the leash.

Leash dog training is equally as popular as any other form of dog training within the expert dog training community because when done properly it gets results quickly and effectively.

Leash training is used by correcting your dog’s movements and gently tugging on the leash to force the dog to go in a way they would not have originally gone and to direct them in the favoured way for the training exercise in hand. Often the problems of leash training are with getting your dog comfortable with the leash and collar so I will briefly discus the key aspects of getting your dog to behave when going for walks on a leash and the problems you might face.

Some dogs are excited to get their collar on and other are not so fond of it, train your dog to sit and stay first before learning to take your dog on a leash, many dogs like to wriggle around and run about wile you try to put a collar or lead on them so the sit stay commands will be essential.

While doing any pre-leash exercises or walks if your dog misbehaves by being too excited you should simply remain calm and not go for walks until they are acting appropriately, this should calm your dog down and act as a light punishment for them.

When starting leash training, begin in your own home and then work your way up to more populated and new and interesting places, if your dog misbehaves or is pulling on the leash constantly when they are out then discipline accordingly, and as always practice will be the deciding factor to how quickly your dog will accomplish good behavior.



Wanda

John Williams Dog Training asked:


There are plenty of dog tricks around to choose from but starting off with your first puppy or dog and knowing which dog tricks are easy can be a bit of a challenge. If you have a puppy then training them will be a lot easier than an older dog because of the habits dogs fall into when they are brought up.

Older dogs will have different habits and a strong personality by then so they may find some advanced tricks easier than basic tricks because of the way they have been brought up.

Although the same as above can be true for puppies also, this is more likely to be because of the breed of dog you have and the different general personalities that go with them breeds.

In this article we assume you have taught your dog the basics or sit and stay etc and now you want to teach your dog a fun ‘show-off’ type trick to impress your friends or family when they visit. There are many tricks from bringing you the TV remote to riding a skateboard, but to start off I recommend something simple like the figure of eight around your legs.

This is similar to other commands you will have taught your dog and involves you using treats to encourage your dog to perform actions. To do this trick you simply have hold a treat in one hand and guide your dog through one side of your legs, through the middle then around to complete a figure of eight motion. Try to hold the treat close to your dog’s nose to keep them interested and always reward them with praise afterwards and the treat afterwards.

After you have mastered this and can get your dog to do it on command you’re ready for your next trick and one step closer to the skateboard. Good luck!



Alan

Phil Donahoe asked:


When it comes to dog training there are two differing sides of opinion when it comes to dogs and their digging habits. Firstly, many dog trainers think that a dog is a dog, and we should permit him to express his true canine nature by allowing him free reign over the yard and flowerbeds. The other dog training experts feel that a flowerbed is a flowerbed, and no dog should even think about expression his dogginess if such an expression comes at the price of a ruined flowerbed.

Most leading dog training experts favor the middle ground for training your dog. Although many dogs do love to dig, and it is healthy for them to be permitted to dig once in a while, there’s a difference between allowing your dog to express their inner puppy, and allowing him to run rampant in the backyard. No dog training professional would agree that a dog should have to come at the price of a garden, and vice versa. When if comes to dog training, flowers and dogs can coexist peacefully if you train your dog correctly. If your dog’s developed a taste for digging, it will just take a bit of time, and some ingenuity, on your part to resolve the dog training problem satisfactorily.

To start with, if you have yet to adopt a dog and your concern for the fate of your garden is purely hypothetical, consider the breed of dog that you would like. If you’ve got your eye on a specific mixed-breed dog, what aspect of his mixed dog heritage seems to be the most prominent?

Dog breed often plays a significant role in any given dog’s personal opinion of digging as a rewarding and valuable dog pastime – many terriers and Nordic breeds in particular (Huskies, Malamutes, some members of the Spitz family for example) seem to particularly enjoy digging.

Every dog training expert will, of course, say that when you get right down to the sum and substance, every dog is first and foremost an individual, and there’s no real way to predict whether or not your chosen four legged friend is going to be a burrower or not. However, if you’re trying to reduce the likelihood of an involuntarily-landscaped garden as much as possible, It is suggested you stay away from all breeds of terrier (and for those that did not know, the name means ‘go to earth’, after all!) and the Nordic breeds.

Why do dogs dig?

Dog training professionals often agree on the following reasons, and they are in no particular order, as to why a dog will dig:

* General Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of their nervous energy.

* Boredom. Bored dogs will find a ‘job’ to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.

* Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.

* The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature – no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it’s nearly impossible to confine them to an area. For a Doggy-Houdini, it’s not the digging itself that is the reward, it is the wonderful unknown that exists beyond the boundaries they were confined to and dogs love to explore a world of unfamiliar scents.

* Separation anxiety. Often when a dog is seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs – but because it’s so complex, we won’t be dealing with it in this article but keep an eye out because I will be writing about that in detail in another article.

Training the habit out of your dog

Dog training experts agree that most of the reasons contributing to your dog’s desire to dig suggest their own solutions. If your dog’s not getting enough exercise (generally speaking, at least forty-five minutes worth of vigorous walking per day), take him for more walks it will help you and your dog stay fit and healthy. If your dog is bored, give him some interesting and durable toys and chews to play with during your absence, and wear him out before you leave so he spends most of the day napping. As for an escape-artist dog, they might need to be crated, or at least kept inside the house where he’s less likely to be able to break out of his or her confines.

For those dogs who just like to dig as a pastime in itself, though, here are a few basic dog training tips for controlling inappropriate excavation as much as is reasonably possible:

* Restrict your dog’s access to the area concerned. This is the most effective thing you can do: if he’s never in the yard without active supervision, there’s no opportunity for digging his own personal tunneling system.

* Use a natural deterrent. Almost all dogs will shy back, horrified, from the prospect of digging anywhere that there’s dog poop. Even the ones who like to eat poop (a condition known as coprophagia) generally won’t dig anywhere near it as it offends their basic natural, fastidious dislike of soiling their coat and paws.

* Use nature’s own protection. If the continued digging is bothering you because it’s upsetting the more delicate blooms in your garden, plant hardier blossoms: preferably, those with deep roots and thorny defenses. Roses are ideal and a natural deterrent.

* A more time-consuming, but super-effective way of dog training is to roll up the first inch or two of turf in your yard, and lay down chicken-wire underneath it. Your dog won’t know it is there until he’s had a few tries at digging, but once he’s convinced himself that it’s pointless (which won’t take long), he’ll never dig in that yard again. As we say, time consuming but very, very effective.

Accept your dog’s need for an outlet, give him a place to dig

If your dog is set on tunneling your yard into a pot marked, grassless lunar landscape, but you’re equally determined to prevent this from happening at all costs, take a moment to consider before embarking on a grueling and time-consuming preventative strategy.

Setting yourself the goal of eradicating all digging behavior, period, is pretty unrealistic. It is not fair on you (since, really, you’re setting yourself up for failure), and it’s not really fair on your poor dog either. If he’s a natural-born digging machine, it’s just part of his personality, and he needs at least some opportunity to express that in some form.

But a lawn and a dog don’t have to be mutually exclusive. The most humane and understanding thing for you to do in this case is simply to redirect his digging energy where you can live with it and he can love you for it.

The simplest dog training solution in this case is allocating him an area where he’s allowed to dig as much as he pleases. Once this zone’s been established, you can make it understood that there is to be absolutely no digging in the rest of the garden, and you can enforce your rules with a clear conscience. As set these boundaries you know your dog now has his own little corner of the world to turn upside down and inside out as he chooses and all parties are happy.

But what if you don’t have a “spare corner” of the backyard for your little digger to call his own? What if the whole thing, grass, flowerbeds, and gravel path, is just too dear to your heart? This is ok, there is a solution to this as well. You can invest in a sandbox, which you can place anywhere in the garden.

You can even make one yourself (the deeper, the better, obviously). Fill it with a mixture of sand and earth, and put some leaves or grass on top if you like for effect and get your dog interested in it by having a scratch around yourself, until he gets the idea.

Ensuring the boundaries are clear

One great dog training tip is to make it clear to him that the sandbox is OK but that everywhere else is a no-dig zone, spend a little time supervising him. When he starts to dig in the box (you can encourage this by shallowly burying a few choice marrowbones in there), praise him energetically – and if he starts digging anywhere else, correct him straight away with an extended finger or hand command and state a firm “No!” or “ahh-ah-ahhhh”.

Then, redirect him immediately to the sandbox, and dole out vociferous praise when digging recommences.

To really clarify the lesson, give him a treat when digging gets underway in the sandbox – the close proximity between the correction (for digging out of the sandbox) and praise/reward (for digging in the sandbox) will ensure that your point strikes home and you will have dog training success.



Jeffery

John Williams Dog Training asked:


Dog ticks are another one of those terrible little pests that can really irritate your dog during the summer or warmer months of the year, theses creatures hid in grass and other surfaces and insert themselves within your dog’s skin in order to live off your dog’s warm blood.

Ticks are especially bad for carrying diseases and enjoy and can survive in the nice warm heat of your home, ticks get carried into the home on pets and preferably dogs and once they have had their feed, fall off and seek cover in a safe area out of site which makes theses pests hard to find and get rid of.

A tick’s life can be up to around 2 years long, and within that time the tick can live on 2-3 hosts to maintain its feeding habit, this feeding habit only happens at certain times of the year around august to November.

Ticks are a fast growing arachnid that lives and are born on long grassy areas, and climb to the top of leaves and grass to wait for a host to feed off and survive off, theses arachnids can live off many different animals and not just dogs, theses commonly include humans, birds, and mice. Ticks get and carry diseases from theses other animals and can spread them to their next host which may be your dog.

During the summer months it is important to check your dog regularly by running your hands through the dog’s fur and coat to check for small lumps, some pressure is needed to detect these pests and it is wise to check thoroughly every day during the hotter months.

If you detect a lump or suspicious area then you should part the hair or fur to investigate further, you should be able to see a brown tick digging beneath the skin if there is one there. Popular areas to find ticks is in places that do not have much fur for the tick to climb through, these include the face, paws and behind and around the ears.

If you detect a tick, you should notify and take advice from your vet or a professional; if you remove the tick yourself you may leave part of the tick still within your dog’s skin which will be irritating for the dog.



Jo

Cap’n Jack asked:


My dog is a mix, and i was wondering what breads she is. My family thinks she has some pitbull in her, but thats about it. Is there a way to find out?

Dustin

John Williams Dog Training asked:


Loosing your dog can be a very worrying time for the most calm of us, and whether the blame was on you or it was on other circumstances, finding the lost dog should be your number one priority, the quicker you get started on looking for your dog, the quicker you will find them.

First you should keep calm and asses the situation properly; over-worrying will cause you to forget things that seem common sense to others. Start by closing all the doors in your house and properly searching your home. Dogs can find their way into most places unimaginable to us humans so look in every place possible and places you think would be impossible.

After you have search your house and dishwasher, clothes dryer, washing machine, and attic you will have to start to look outside, look in al the places your dog like to go to start with , then if not found, start to scour your neighbourhood looking underneath cars, hedges and bushes asking and taking to everyone on your travels.

If after searching your neighbourhood for your dog you do not find them, then the next day you should continue the same routine as the previous day, shouting your dogs name at all times and listening for any response.

After this stage, finding the numbers for local vets or pet health care services in your area may be a good idea to see if any injured or lost animals of your dog’s description have been rescued or found within the last few days. If not then flyers with a picture and a phone number should be posted and put up within a mile radius of your home, and checking the ‘found’ pages in the newspapers to look for any results.

If you follow the steps above you secure the best chance of finding your pet alive and well in a quick timescale and without too much worry.

Always remember to take down and remove the flyers after you have found you dog to maintain a good relationship with the people around you and a clean neighbourhood.



Melissa

Kayye Nynne asked:


The Caucasian Mountain Dog also known as the Caucasian Ovtcharka is an ancient breed that for centuries was little known outside the remote regions from which it hails, namely the Caucasus which incorporate: Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Dagestan, Iran and Turkey. The Caucasian Mountain Dog or Ovtcharka (in Russian Ovtcharka means shepherd or sheepdog) is a member of the working group of dog breed and despite its appellation of sheepdog/shepherd this dog was never a livestock herder but rather a guardian or protector which goes a long way in explaining its not inconsiderable size! The Caucasian Mountain dog was bred to protect livestock against wolves, bears and other predators; in fact the Caucasian Ovtcharka has an uncanny resemblance to a bear!

Considered until fairly recently by many to be a descendent of the Tibetan Mastiff, updated archeological evidence suggests that its ancestry originated from ancient dogs that lived in the woody hills of Iraq and Mesopotamia. It is believed that assorted dog types that accompanied nomadic tribes that settled in the Caucasus regions, with little intervention and interference from outside influences, eventually evolved into the Caucasian Mountain Dog.

Up until the 1930s, the Caucasian Ovtcharka was little known outside its home range until it started appearing in European dog shows in Germany. Around 1952 the Caucasian Mountain Dog was sub-divided into two distinct breeds: the Transcaucasian Ovtcharka which is typically the heavier-boned, massive dog that hails from the mountainous regions; and the Caucasian Ovtcharka, the less heavily built type that originates from the steppe regions.

In 1976 the two sub-breeds were consolidated and reclassified as one breed, and these days the Caucasian Mountain Dog is expected to conform to a single standard. Be that as it may however, the various sub-breeds can still be differentiated regionally from the various territories of the former USSR and nowadays one of the most coveted type of Caucasian Mountain Dog is the so-called Georgia sub-breed which is characteristically a thick-coated, heavy-boned, massive dog that most closely resembles a bear.

The potential of the Caucasian Mountain Dog as much more than a Livestock Guardian Dog (LGD) was quickly realized by the now defunct Soviet Army and soon enough this dog breed was employed both during peace and war time as auxiliary military “personnel” within the expanse of the Soviet Union. In the late 1960s the Caucasian Ovcharka was widely introduced to East Germany specifically for border patrol duty, fore mostly to patrol the infamous Berlin Wall. When the Berlin Wall came toppling down in 1989, the by-then, at least 7000-strong unit of Caucasian Mountain Dogs employed to patrol the Wall’s perimeter was disbanded and many of those dogs found new homes within the newly emancipated civilian population!

Temperament

This dog breed was developed to guard flocks and livestock and hence has a strong inherent guardian/protector trait. Much as a Border Collie family dog will tend to herd its family as a substitute flock of sheep, the Caucasian Mountain Dog will have the tendency to be somewhat protective of its immediate family, a characteristic that has obvious benefits but perhaps less obvious consequences. The Caucasian Ovcharka is a strong-willed (some might say stubborn) breed of dog that requires a firmer hand for proper socialization and training. The so-called stubborn nature of this dog type is not surprising when one considers that it was bred over hundreds of years for these exact qualities.

This dog was bred to largely exist independent of humans (except for its shepherd) and was bred to co-exist with the livestock it was guarding; thus the Caucasian Mountain dog breed is inherently wary of strangers be they people or animals. Unsurprisingly, the Caucasian Ovtcharka is most active at night (livestock predators tend to hunt under the cover of night) and though it may give the impression that it’s a big lazy dozing dog, at the slightest hint of intruders the Caucasian Mountain Dog will nimbly get to its feet, sound the alarm (barking) and immediately go to confront the threat!

The Caucasian Ovcharka takes the protection of its territory (these days consider that the family yard) very seriously and will consider any encroachment by a stranger as a threat. Despite its formidable size this dog is characterized by the use of minimal force to dissuade any threat. Such minimal force may likely take the form of confronting the predator and barking and growling aggressively; usually that is enough to change the minds of most intruders because much like its wild Canid counterparts, this old dog breed still retains the mindset that physical (or deadly) force should be a last resort since it tends to be counter productive (i.e., injury to either party).

Any Good With Kids?

As previously noted this dog breed tends to substitute its immediate family for the livestock it was selectively bred to protect; in other words this dog is strongly protective of members of its family. Hence it is important to understand that this dog could perceive rambunctious or rough child’s play between a family member and a friend (as is the tendency with boys) to be a threat and its hardwired protect-the-flock genetics will immediately kick in!

Thus it is vitally imperative to properly socialize this dog breed and also explain to your kids that just because they know that “Shaggy” would never hurt them, they should understand that the same may not go for their friends unless the dog knows them well (i.e., has accepted them as an extension of its flock). Obviously with a dog this size all activity around small children should be supervised, because though the family pet may not intend harm, it’s a big dog that during the heat of play may easily forget its formidable strength and size and could accidentally hurt a young child!

The Question Of Apartment Dwelling?

By and large the Caucasian Mountain Dog does not make the ideal apartment dweller. Although like most big dogs its energy level is somewhat low this dog breed is inherently nocturnal and was bred to alert and warn of, and off intruders. In other words your love for your Caucasian Mountain Dog could well translate into hatred from your neighbors because your Caucasian Ovcharka is driving them crazy with its nightly cacophony (barking…which is especially true if your neighbors are creatures of the night aka party animals).

Interactivity With Other Dogs

From a genetic view point the Caucasian Mountain Dog was never bred to be overly friendly with other canids be they dogs or wolves, because as a flock guardian it would have been expected to ward off all potential predators which naturally would have included feral dogs. However as with most any breed of dog timely and proper socialization usually overcomes any unfriendliness towards other dogs or animals in this breed!

Caucasian Mountain Dog Breed Standard

Currently there appear to be conflicting breed standards which could be in part explained by the different sub-breeds and the late acceptance of this breed into the AKC; as of now this dog breed has no AKC ranking. Only recently has the AKC moved to officially recognize this dog breed (May 2007) even though the Caucasian Ovcharka has been on record with the FSS (Foundation Stock Services) since 1996. From January of 2008 the Caucasian Mountain Dog will be allowed to formally compete in the AKC Companion Events.

Size Requirements:

The following height measurements are for the mature dog and are measured up to the shoulder bone.

Height of Males: 25.5 – 30 inches (64cm – 70cm)

Height Females: 24.5 and upwards

Weight of Males: 100lbs + (45kg – 70 kg)

Weight Females: 80lbs + (37kg – upwards)

It should be noted however that for the Kavkazskaya Ovcharka Breed (the Georgian Caucasian Mountain Dog sub-breed that most closely resembles a bear) the requisite dimensions differ considerably:

Height of Male: 28.3 – 29.5 inches (72cm – 75cm; minimum is 68cm or 26.8 inches)

Female Height: 26.0 – 27.2 inches (66cm – 69cm; minimum is 64 cm or 25.2 inches)

Naturally the weight of the Kavkazskaya Ovcharka Breed will tend to be somewhat heavier and it is not unusual for males to top 180lbs!

The Caucasian Mountain Dog falls under the category of Working Dogs as a Livestock Guardian Dog (LGD).

Caucasian Mountain Dog



Pauline

Art Gib asked:


A dog bed is an essential piece of equipment for all dogs regardless of size, breed or age.

A good dog bed:

- provides a private space and sense of security;

- provides insulation from the floor in both winter and summer;

- cushions joints and bones;

- controls the spread of hair, dirt, and dander.

It may also save your furniture, as your dog will soon prefer his bed to your sofa.

Choosing the Right Dog Bed

How your dog sleeps, his size, age, or physical condition must all be considered when choosing the perfect bed for your dog.

Dog Bed Shapes

The shape of a dog bed is just as important as the size and filling.

- Round dog beds are great for dogs who curl up when they sleep. Our round dog beds are also ideally suited for younger dogs, who need a greater sense of security.

- Rectangular dog beds work best for dogs who stretch out. Older dogs often have less flexibility and will find a rectangular dog bed more comfortable.

Bolster Dog Beds

If you’ve ever found your dog sleeping with his back to the couch or a cushion, he’s there for a reason. Dogs who sleep this way do so because the support against their back offers them a feeling of security. Bolster dog beds are great for providing both security and comfort. Plus, the soft, spun-polyester-stuffed bolster makes an excellent pillow.

- Round bolster dog beds provide the perfect spot for dogs who like to curl up and snuggle next to something soft when they sleep.

- Rectangular dog loungers with soft bolsters on the back and sides provide a bed with a cozy cover that allows dogs to burrow in and relax in comfort.

- Deep dish bolster dog beds are great for homes with more than one dog.

Bagel Dog Beds

Does your dog circle and circle to find just the right place to lie down? Dogs who like to look for the perfect nesting spot love Bagel dog beds. With a soft, overstuffed bolster that completely surrounds your dog, Bagel dog beds provide a sense of safety and security that some dogs need when they snuggle in.

Burrow Dog Bed

Many dogs, small breeds in particular, can’t settle down to sleep unless they have their backs snuggled into something for an added feeling of safety and security. The Dog Burrow is the perfect solution–the half-covered hood offers an enclosed area, much like a natural den.

Memory Foam for Older Dogs

For older dogs, rectangular dog beds with memory foam help to ease the discomfort and stiffness associated with joint and muscle pain, whether from age, arthritis, hip dysplasia, or injury. By conforming to your dog’s individual body shape, less stress and pressure are put on the joints and muscles. Excessive callus irritation over joints is also minimized. A memory foam dog bed with a down covering will provide additional luxurious warmth.

ToughChew Dog’s Nest: For Dogs Who Chew

The ToughChew Dog’s Nest is made to be chew resistant to stand up to puppies as well as adult dogs who like to chew. While it’s tough, it’s also soft enough for a comfortable night’s sleep. Available in seven sizes and two shapes with the same high-loft hypoallergenic polyester filling.

Space-Saving Beds

If available space for a dog bed is a factor, then give your dog a luxurious dog bed that lets him spend time where you do without getting in the way. Space-saving dog beds tuck neatly in a corner or against a wall, allowing your dog a comfortable place to sleep that you can live with, too.

Couch Guardians

For dogs who love to rest on the couch, a couch guardian protects your furniture from stains, liquids, pet hair, and odors with innovative protection for your couch or love seat. At the same time, it gives your dog a comfortable place to rest. In a range of colors and even in fine leather, couch protectors complement any home’s decor.

Dog Blankets

More than half of all dog owners in America allow their dogs to sleep on their beds or couches. If you need a protective covering for your couch or bed that’s also comfortable and stylish, Three Dog Night bedding is for you. This dog-proof bedding protects your bed or couch from moisture, dirt, and provides you with a comfortable warm place to sleep with your dog.

Outdoor Dog Beds

For a comfortable place to sleep on the back porch, nothing beats an outdoor dog bed. These dog beds can be cleaned with a garden hose, are fast drying and will not mold or mildew.

Portable Dog Beds and Mats for Travel

When you travel, be sure to take a travel mat or portable dog bed for the comfort of your best friend. Travel mats and beds fold for ease of transport and ensure that your dog will have a more restful trip.



Lucy

John Williams Dog Training asked:


Ok so you want to know about dog fleas, what they do, how they do it, and what dangers you should look out for if you’re suspecting fleas on your dog or in your home.

Well let me start of by saying there is over 2000 different varieties of flea in the world today, the female version of these small little pests can reproduce at the alarming rate of 50 eggs a day max and an average egg count is normally around 20- 30 a day. Fleas can start to lay eggs as soon as 48 hours after having their first blood meal which makes getting rid of these fleas early on essential.

Around half of the flea population are eggs, 30% larvae, 15% pupae and only around 5% of the population are biting adults. These larvae take anywhere from a week to a month to become biting fleas and as you can see by the stats, the key to stopping your flea problem and letting your dog get a good night sleep again is through getting rid of the eggs.

Fleas can’t reproduce without a blood meal from your dog or another animal but can survive for long periods of time (2 months to a year) in hibernation without a meal but usually they will die off within one week without hibernation.

They key places to look out for fleas are near your dog’s bed or under bushes outside that your pet sleeps or rests. Anywhere your dog lies for long periods of time are key areas for fleas to live.

To check for fleas on your dog you will first have probably noticed your dog being very restless and uncomfortable, so the next step is to search for flea faeces, this will look like small bits of dirt to the human eye and rubbing it between your fingers with some water will bring out the red colour of blood if it is flea faeces.

Once you have found evidence of flea faeces you are now ready to move on to the next big step and get rid of the pests that are making your dog feel so uncomfortable.



Johnny

Kayye Nynne asked:


Throughout history the Greyhound has been the darling dog breed of royalty and nobility. From the ancient Egyptians, who often mummified and buried favored dogs with their owners; to the English nobility who enacted a law banning so fine a beast from being owned by mere commoners. Even the Bedouin (who as devout Muslims shun dogs in general for supposedly being unclean) since time immemorial have so revered the Greyhound (or its derivative or ancestor) that not only was contact permitted, they even allowed the consumption of game caught by such dogs.

Fast forward to today and it is hard to believe that this dog breed once held such an esteemed position. Currently over 100,000 Greyhound dogs are destroyed each year worldwide, as a result of the cruel sport of dog racing!

In times long past a messenger carrying both good news and bad always supplied the good news first in order to lessen the effect of the bad news and thereby increase his chances of living to see another day (hence the expression: Don’t shoot the messenger!) So borrowing from that tactful approach, this article shall address the Greyhound’s glorious past first before covering its dismal present:

The Greyhound is a dog that stands apart from the other dog breeds not only for the fact that it happens to be the speed champion of the dog world but also because it holds an unparalleled array of records which include:

1. The fastest dog in the world across short distances: the Greyhound dog can attain speeds in excess of 40 mph (64km/h)

2. It has the longest stride of any dog breed whilst it is in full flight. One Greyhound dog is on record of having covered a distance of 30 feet (9.14m) in a single leap. The Greyhound’s sprint is described as a double flight gait which involves the dog at some point having all of its feet off the ground. When a Greyhound dog is sprinting it propels itself first with its hind legs and then momentarily lands on its front feet before cantilevering off those while reaching forward with its hind feet (at which point for an instant all four feet are off the ground).

This double-flight gait is extremely fast but also very unstable which explains the many injuries that befall racing Greyhounds. The Cheetah which is the fastest mammal on earth has a somewhat similar sprint pattern which also entails the Cheetah’s four limbs being fully off the ground at some point. The Greyhound however is no match for the Cheetah which can attain speeds of 70 mph (114 km/h) and maintain that speed for 3.5 miles!

Though the Greyhound cannot match the Cheetah’s speed, it obviously is no slow coach either and the reason why this dog breed can attain such speeds (other than its obvious aerodynamic-enhanced morphological structure and muscle mass) is because it packs so much hemoglobin in its blood. Those elevated levels of hemoglobin ensure the transfer of more oxygen to the tissues which also bestows the Greyhound dog’s blood with a sludge-like quality (thick blood). If the human heart were to attempt pumping such a thick mixture of blood it would most likely go into failure.

3. The Greyhound boasts the longest documented history of any dog breed. Ancient drawings and records place the Greyhound dog as a distinctive breed over 6000 years ago.

4. The Greyhound is the most expensive dog breed; it is not unusual for champion racing Greyhounds to command a price tag in excess of $70,000!

5. The Greyhound dog is the one breed that has been most favored by royalty and the aristocracy throughout all of dog history. In fact so much so was this dog breed viewed as the epitome of canine excellence that a law was passed in England in 1014—part of the Forest Laws—which categorically forbade commoners to own a Greyhound dog! Those persons other than nobility who were permitted to own a Greyhound, such as Freemen, could only do so, so long as the dog was deliberately maimed if they lived within 10 miles of a royal forest.

Interestingly enough, royal households used to employ select dog-mutilators whose job was to rove around the countryside ensuring that nobody not born of noble birth or titled by the king was in illegal possession of a greyhound dog that was not lamed! However, as the acreage of the great forests dwindled, and with the rising importance of agricultural and domestic livestock food sources, the function of the Greyhound dog declined correspondingly! Even so the Greyhound still remained the favorite dog of the landed gentry especially as the popularity of hare coursing grew. By the 1800s hare coursing had become a favored pastime of the upper classes in England.

Greyhound Dog: Origins & History

The Greyhound dog is evidently a breed of antiquity stretching back thousands of years. There are several references from many ancient cultures citing the Greyhound throughout history. Although many dog books note the Greyhound dog as having originated in Britain this is very unlikely. It would be more accurate to concede that the Greyhound in its modern form most closely resembles the dog that was selectively gene-trait refined according to English standards.

Historical data tends to suggest that the Greyhound evolved from early Sighthounds that existed in ancient Egypt. Paintings, decorations, and other artifacts from early Egyptian culture celebrate a dog very similar in appearance to the Greyhound. Indeed several pharaohs are known to have owned Greyhound-looking dogs. Some of the pharaohs included: Cleopatra (yes the seductive femme fatale), Tutankhamen, Queen Hatshepsut, to name but a few. The Greyhound also so happens to be the only dog breed to be mentioned by name in the Bible (Proverbs 30:29-31, King James Version). Ancient Greek and Roman mythology is rife with tales describing Greyhound-like dogs.

It is not unreasonable to speculate that the ancient Greeks attained their first Greyhound specimens (or at least its progenitor) from Egyptian merchants. In Greek mythology their gods were often portrayed with Greyhounds. The Romans in turn probably first stumbled across the Greyhound via their interaction with the Greeks. However it is equally possible the Romans got their original hounds from the Celts, seeing as the well regarded Roman authors, Ovid and Arrian often referred to the Greyhound as a Celt Hound. However, whatever the Greyhound’s origins, what is known is that since its earliest affiliation with humans, this dog breed has wowed mankind the world over with its speed and agility, most notably through the sport of coursing. Hare coursing is an old sport practiced since the time of the Romans who probably exported it to Britain when they invaded.

Strangely enough it appears that the Romans were much more sporting than their modern dog-racing counterparts, with respect to the welfare of both the dogs and hares involved in the coursing event, as amply illustrated by the following excerpt written by Roman Flavius Arrianus (Arrian) in 124 AD: “The true sportsman does not take out his dogs to destroy the hares, but for the sake of the course and the contest between the dogs and the hares, and is glad if the hare escapes…whoever courses with greyhounds should neither slip them near the hare, nor more than a brace (two) at a time.” Simply put, no more than two dogs were to be used in the chase and they were not to be released too close to the hare!

The Many-Named Dog

Across the breadth of time the Greyhound dog has been designated almost as many names as the number of years for which the breed has existed (okay…I’ll admit that’s a bit of an exaggeration but you get the point). In the English language alone, the Greyhound has had at least 50 names. Unsurprisingly there has been considerable debate concerning the meaning of the various names:

1. Grewhound; the “Grew” portion of the word meaning “Greek.” A similar but variant school of thought postulates that the “Grew” was actually “Graius” which still means Greek; again these old English names tend to lend credence that the Greyhound originated elsewhere other than Britain.

2. Greyhounds are certainly anything but grey so it is highly unlikely that the word ever reflected the breed’s color. Some believe that the “grey” in Greyhound was once “grei” which meant beautiful.

3. Great Hound; another school of thought speculates that the Greyhound was once known as the Greathound (the name evidently reflecting the dog’s exalted status in gentrified society) but as time progressed the term somehow mutated into “greyhound.”

The few examples above are a minuscule sampling of the various names the Greyhound has been called at one time or another during history in some variation of the English language.

The Harsh Unforgiving World Of Greyhound Dog Racing

It truly is hard to imagine how so exalted a dog breed could end up where it is today—slaughtered in the thousands each year. This is all the more shocking when one considers that at some point in Greyhound dog history it was a crime punishable by death to kill one (during the reign of King Canute). However currently each year thousands upon thousands of Greyhounds are destroyed, a good number before they’ve even attained the tender age of 2 years!

The reason for this mass slaughter can be defined in 3 words: Greyhound Dog Racing! Every year the Greyhound dog racing industry breeds several thousand dogs, far more than the number that get to compete. The reason for this over breeding—ambitious Greyhound dog breeders looking for that elusive but ever so lucrative champion dog racer! The dogs that don’t make the cut are typically destroyed or in some cases actually subjected to a fate worse than death!

The Greyhound dog racing industry certainly pulls no punches with respect to the maltreatment of animals. Since the inception of modern dog racing around the 1920s, the Greyhound (and affiliated industry animals that act as live bait) has suffered unimaginable cruelty; in this industry there is no reprieve or second chance and the vast majority of dogs never get to live anywhere near their expected life expectancy! Instead most dogs are befallen by anyone of the following fates:

1. Killed;

2. Experimented upon as a laboratory animal; the Greyhound’s superb physiology makes it a prime lab candidate for cardiovascular research;

3. Shipped abroad to countries such as China where animal cruelty laws are extremely lax (to say the least); and let’s not forget that dogs often end up on the dinner table there; and

4. Used as food fodder in commercial dog feed (euthanized pets are commonly recycled as commercial dog chow).

A very small percentage of lucky dogs eventually make the transition from Shelters/Rescue Home, to permanent adoption! One need only conduct a cursory search through online Greyhound Adoption centers to see just how bad the problem really is. And perhaps the most tragic aspect of this tragedy is that the Greyhound dog truly is a sweet-tempered and loving dog that some have described as the “speediest couch potato!”

Greyhound Dog Breed



Bryan